For years, The Princess has talked about taking a drive to Pennsylvania to visit Amish country. For years, I have refused.
Maybe it was my reluctance to feel like an outsider to what I would consider xenophobic people. Maybe it was the prospect of having a really boring weekend sniffing horseshit.
Or maybe it was because watching Witness when I was a child traumatized the living crap out of me. Seriously, watching Danny Glover slash a man’s throat in a train station bathroom and watching another man get buried alive under a silo-sized mountain of corn feed is liable to emotionally scar just about anyone.
In any case, I finally agreed this past weekend to take the 2-hour drive to Amish country. We traveled through towns called Cockeysville and Blue Ball before arriving in Intercourse.
FYI: At no point did these jokes get old.
We spent more than 24 hours among these misunderstood Anabaptist Christians, riding their horse-and-buggies, walking among their farms, and doing our best not to offend any of them. Knowing me, I’m surprised I succeeded. I even snickered when I heard some frat boy ask an Amish lady selling homemade root beer to take a photo of her only to have her respond, “I’d rather you didn’t.”
Here are three things I learned about the Amish this weekend:
1. Horseshit stinks.
2. Horses shit a lot.
3. There are a lot of horses in Amish country.
We got to Intercourse, PA, on Saturday afternoon after a meandering drive through northern Maryland and Lancaster County, PA. The Princess, who is nothing if not a well-prepared traveler, read her literature about what we could do in Pennsylvania and soon learned we had made a huge mistake.
Apparently, there is nothing to do on Sundays.
I knew the Amish were a religious bunch but I didn’t realize that meant that everything shut down on the Sabbath. When the Lord wants you to rest, he really wants you to rest. So we tried to cram as much as possible on Saturday.
We took a horse-and-buggy ride:
We visited Amish farms:
We found signs about Intercourse:
We haggled with Amish boys over the price of horseshoes:
We saved a group of kittens from religious persecution:
We drag-raced wild and reckless teenage Amish boys:
We read the Bible (something called the New Testament?) page left open in our hotel room:
And, of course, on Saturday evening, we revisited my traumatic childhood experience by watching Witness, which played in every room in the Best Western at 9pm. More than 20 years later, the movie had lost some of its power over me, I suppose because I no longer empathized with a young Lucas Haas witnessing a brutal murder. And Harrison Ford going ape shit against the local townies for spreading ice cream on the face of that immortal dude from Die Hard was pretty funny.
But man, Kelly McGillis as an Amish woman? Hot.
All of that and no mention of Amish Paradise? Depressing.
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I’m not as hip and with it as you might think I am. Care to elaborate?
Pennsylvanians are weird… and Amish even more so.
But I want a horse. $300 for a horse is nothing!
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They also had donkeys and ponies. I’m sure you could get a pretty good deal there.
eeessshh… Amish country? But, the jokes aren’t that bad…
An Amish woman and her daughter were riding in an open buggy one cold, blustery January day. The daughter said to the mother, “My hands are freezing cold.” The mother replied, “Put your hands between your legs. The body heat will warm them up.” So the daughter did, and her hands warmed up. The next day, the daughter was riding in the buggy with her boyfriend. The boyfriend said, “My hands are freezing cold.” The daughter said, “Put them between my legs, they’ll warm up.”
The next day, the boyfriend is driving in the buggy with the daughter. He said, “My nose is freezing cold.” The daughter said, “Put it between my legs. It will warm up.” He did, and his nose warmed up. The next day, the boyfriend is driving again with the daughter and he said, “My penis is frozen solid.” The next day, the daughter is driving in the buggy with her mother, and she says to her mother, “Have you ever heard of a penis?” The slightly concerned mother says, “Sure, why do you ask?” The daughter says, “Well, they make one hell of a mess when they thaw out.
This shouldn’t have made me laugh but it did.
“Amish Paradise” was Weird Al’s play on Coolio’s “Gangsta’s Paradise”.
Now I feel cool.
When I was driving through Pa once, I came within 3 feet of totally running over a horse and/or buggy.
You haven’t lived until you’ve seen terrified amish people.
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I would say you haven’t lived until you’ve been terrified by Amish people.
In Strasburg, PA I saw Amish buggies with electronic turn signals on them.
you missed the best thing about small town PA — the thrift stores. You can get so many things for a quarter, dime, or nickel.
Good post
You are a good boyfriend.
this post reminds me i should go visit my mother.
for fun, amish lads will hook a sled up to a horse and careen through their muddy tilled fields. they are covered in mud head to toe. now we have world of warcraft. kids used to know how to have real fun.
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you went to Lancaster when I wasn’t there. wtf?! you couldn’t wait like, a month for me to show you that Lancaster is not completely all backwards? plus, I could have shown you stuff that’s not so touristy (ask E).
but shame on you for taking photographs of the Amish boys’ faces. that’s a complete no-no.
it’s not just the road apples that smell…. i’m sure all the farmers are fertilizing the fields about now. but really that’s the smell of home sweet home.
1. I want one of those kittens. Or both of those kittens. Or at least more pictures of those kittens.
2. I know I’m ridiculously immature, but the positioning of the mechanic in the “Intercourse Automotive” sign strikes me as slightly suggestive.
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Exactly! That was my first — and only, really — reaction.
Amish kittens are way cuter than modern kittens.
I can’t believe it’s only a 2 hour drive. I would have guessed 6.
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So an automotive mechanic is Amish country, huh? Seems sacra religious.
. . . aaaaand the sign is right next to the one for the EMISSION STATION.
(I came back for more kittens, and stayed for more Intercourse humor)
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You know in the right kind of light with a little longer beard, suspenders and a button fly - you do look Amish.
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H is right, Amish country can be fun. But we both experienced the shame of being locked out of tourist “attractions”…
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What a great post. I grew up in PA and drove through Lancaster County dozens of times over the years, but I can honestly say, I had no idea people actually drove out of their way (i.e., left civilization) to “visit” and co-mingle with the Amish.
Next time, if you’re coming that far north, you should hit up Hershey Park. Definitely a smaller-sized amusement park but still fun AND you can go to Chocolate World and stock up on gi-normous bags/bars of candy. Best part: the place smells a helluva lot better than Amish country.
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I have to agree with jordanbaker, the “Intercourse Automotive” sign made me laugh. It reminded me of a recent local news “story” where a Maryland man was caught, ummm, duffing his patio table through the hole where the umbrella usually sits. Hilarity!
And $300 for a fucking horseshoe??? Those Amish boys are pure con men…
I grew up in a county in rural Virginia where a branch of Amish resided. This group was slightly more modern, they would drive cars (only in black), but the dress and belief system was very similar. And yeah, the horse shit smelled just as bad!
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I have an Uncle who grew up in Blueball (not Amish - Irish Catholic). He once gave me an ‘I love Intercourse’ coffee cup. I loved that cup…
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The best part was that I got homemade root beer and potato chips. And I also bought some other potato chips cooked in lard. I didn’t know they did that anymore!